Back

In that context, sustainability and longevity are vital, wherever we can find them, however long we can hold on to them. A lovely restaurant surviving through the decades isn’t just a happy neighborhood story. It’s a danged triumph.

The restaurant business is brutal. That sweet couple who own Cheng Heng? I’m far more impressed with them than any of these Forbes-magazine-cover wheeler-dealer con artists. They made something matter, and they made it •last•. That is my definition of success.